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Thread: Getting The Ol' Girl Back On The Road Again

  1. #41
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    I like the grub screw - very neat! Those contacts don't look to shabby either.

    Bump starting the GTS isn't too hard - it is surprisingly light; It is just my ego that takes a drubbing.

    If you are thinking of buying a new battery, have a shufti at Shorai batteries, they are shockingly light coming in at about 10% of the weight of their lead acid counterpart.

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    Nix

  3. #42
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    Those Shorai batteries look really interesting! I'm thinking not just for the bikes but for some of my existing alternative technology stuff as well. They appear to have similarish characteristics to AGM batteries but super light weight. The nearest battery, according to the site is "Ducati - 1980 - 900 SS ElecStart (All)" which is 14 ah so surely this is only for the kick start models. Must look into this further..

  4. #43
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    This afternoon I thought I'd go through some of the many electrical faults on the bike. Traced quite a few and then ended on this classic from the L/H handlebar switch assembly. Not sure who did this but I reckon they were having a very very bad day at the time lol! Disregarding the artistic soldering, there were at least four or five big mistakes but can you spot the biggest of them all?

    Initially the switches looked reasonably sound:



    Then looked at the wiring - spot the incredible blunder!:


  5. #44
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    Good day today!

    Desoldered the crap that was on the light switch assembly, reconfigured the wiring and resoldered my own crap onto it. Then a matter of finding a couple of springs so the horn/flash buttons could work again. It's times like this that saving knick-knacks in a jar really comes in handy!



    Next job was to hold my breath while I fitted all the fuses and turned on the ignition. Nothing blew! Tried out the lights, no go, found a bad earth and bingo, we have lights! Hi/lo ok, pilot ok, tail ok. Continuity on the flash and horn button press ok. Felt really good at this stage. No indicators on the bike, not bothered anyway. No horn fitted so will have to sort that out. No front brake light switch from what I could see, tried the rear brake and no go for the brake light. Traced and found the weirdest brake light switch I think I've ever seen!



    I'm assuming this works by compression but I can't seem to get into it without the risk of destruction. Very strange, it looks like it has to stay on the brake cable? So everytime you replace the brake cable, you get a new brake light switch? Surely not.

    Anyone?

  6. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nix View Post
    Traced and found the weirdest brake light switch I think I've ever seen!

    http://www.nix.talktalk.net/brakesw.jpg

    I'm assuming this works by compression but I can't seem to get into it without the risk of destruction. Very strange, it looks like it has to stay on the brake cable? So everytime you replace the brake cable, you get a new brake light switch? Surely not.

    Anyone?
    Now that jogs my memory. As I remember that was the standard brake light switch on the 860GTS and presumably on the earlier GT and GTE models. Yes it is integrated with the rear brake cable. If I remember right you can get into it by prising plastic lugs in the detents on either side which separates the base with the blade connectors from the body.

    Old enough to know better, young enough not to care

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    Nix

  8. #46
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    Yet the brake light switch is listed separately.

    Click image for larger version

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    Old enough to know better, young enough not to care

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    Nix

  10. #47
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    Bought a new horn yesterday so decided that it was going to be fitted today. Some weird and wonderful units in the horn wiring diagram (relay & tone adjustment?), one in the instrument panel (missing) and one inside the headlamp shell. As I didn't have the original horn, decided to modify the wiring to bypass those units and earth straight through the button. No probs, worked a treat. Next was to get the flasher button working. New earth connection was needed here, quick wire check and, again, no probs, got a working flasher.

    Before starting on that rear brake light switch, had a look at the Haynes manual to see if it was going to give me any clues. Found the only reference at 6.13.2 which simply states "The rear switch unit is of the mechanical type and is incorportated in the rear brake cable. Again, no maintenance is possible, other than checking wiring connections. Failure will necessitate renewal along with the cable." That's it!

    The bike's been a pleasure to work on so far ie there's always been an option to strip something and fix it. So, why stop with the brake light switch?

    Started with this:



    Had to pry out (no helpful lugs in the detents unfortunately) the rear end cap showing very naff contacts:



    Showing the rubberised compression section (which had the very soft rubber visible lugs you could see from outside the unit):



    That came out which then showed a very dirty contact end plate:



    Clean everything up, dab of WD40, put back together, reconnect brake cable, ignition on, and we now have a rear brake light. Shame on you, Mr Haynes!

    Man, I love this bike!

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  12. #48
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    It was a long time ago that I had one to bit

    Old enough to know better, young enough not to care

  13. #49
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    Your input always appreciated, Derek!

    Didn't know if it was going to be like some parts these days that you really can't work on but, lo and behold, very fixable. What really amazed me was that the rubber was still in such good condition. I hate the throw away society we live in so it gives me real pleasure and satisfaction to be able to do this sort of thing!

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  15. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nix View Post
    ... but can you spot the biggest of them all?

    Then looked at the wiring - spot the incredible blunder!:
    Earth from black/horn switch connected via white cable to centre poles of switches; The inner tracks are connected together hence Earth would connect direct to +ve of fuse box via brown and commit self immolation/spontaneous motorcycle combustion (save for the fuse)?

    There is more...

    I think you should name the bike 'Cinders' as it nearly went up in smoke missing the ball.

    I have to say your soldering does look like an improvement .

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  17. #51
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    You got it, Paul! Not got a name yet but "Cinders" could be a possibility!

    That was just the main problem there, the assembly as a whole was never going to work as intended. Yes, it's little wonder the fuse glowed red and blew straight away. It was a case of turn it on and see what happens first which was a mistake on my part, I never anticipated that kind of wiring. When I see things like this, I know I'm in for a bumpy ride ha!

    Got most things working now, electrically, so my next step is to try and sort out a very messy instrument panel, wires chopped, bits missing, etc same old..

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  19. #52
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    Another day on the 860! Put some petrol in the tank, left tap ok, right tap nada. Took tap unit off and undid the nut holding the tap on:


    Did a couple of tank flushes while tap was off. Back to the tap unit, next pulled filter off to reveal reserve tube:


    Took that off, then pryed out the rubber seal inside the unit to access a clean and blow out:


    Finally, reassemble in reverse order. NB/ The actual tap is spring loaded so a bit of fiddling was required, I ended up pressing in the spring with a 10mm open spanner while, at the same time, trying not to cross thread the main nut with the 18mm spanner. Probably a special daft tool somewhere..:


    2 - 3 litres of fresh Premium in the tank, ignition on, 15 seconds later she fires up! Ran for about 25 secs, switched off, replaced oil filter with new, tomorrow will change oil (sure I got some old mineral somewhere) and fire her up again, but longer next time!

    First time in my life I was really pleased to see that oil was coming from the rear cylinder exhaust tappet cover. This must mean that the top ends are receiving oil from the pump. Excellent! Will clean up mating surface before attempting next test start..

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  21. #53
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    Sounds good Nick!
    I hope you replaced the rubber washers in the taps? I thought I could get around this but I could never go in the garage without smelling petrol. Mdina has new washers and it entirely solved the problem

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  23. #54
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    No, I didn't, they appeared to be in quite good condition so I took a chance. However, if the garage smells of petrol tomorrow, I'll see if I can find a pair and replace 'em.

    Oddly enough, the only thing that leaked petrol was the new pipe on the front tap. I thought it was the tap at first but it ended up being the rubber pipe being so short and offset to the carb that it caused the problem. One small jubilee later and it was sorted!

    BTW, Derek, many thanks again for those brushes, they will ultimately come in handy, very good of you matey!
    Last edited by Nix; 21.04.2015 at 07:25 PM.

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  25. #55
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    Well, that's snookered it, it's not what came out when I undid the drain plug, it's what didn't!



    I knew it couldn't last, something would make me strip the engine down. Had a poke at where the far end of the filter would go, there appears to be something slightly flexible there so must be the other end of the filter that got jammed sometime in the past. Will look in the manual to see if I can access it any other way but I seriously doubt it. My only other option is to fabricate something to dislodge what's left of the filter at the pump end and pull it out...

  26. #56
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    It doesn't look like it is too far in. You might be lucky with a long skinny set of thin nosed pliers.

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  28. #57
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    Hi Paul - sorry, didn't describe that very well. Someone in the bike's past must have already sheared the strainer, fished out the other section and just put the plug back in as you see it in the photo. I think what I see at the oil pump end is what may be the third section of the strainer ie the very end that maybe got jammed and caused it to shear in the first place? I did a quick search and something was mentioned about a special access plug on the pump end of the sump but I can't see that on my bike. Thing is, I don't know if there is supposed to be a plastic guide at the pump end or if it's that possible third end section of the strainer. Oh, happy days!

  29. #58
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    Long reach artery forceps might be the tool to do this.
    Very slim, serrated inner grips and lock in position.

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  31. #59
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    There should be another threaded plug at the other end of the crank case, behind the horizontal exhaust pipe, which gives access to the filter end, unless you have a later bike where it was cast over. The plastic guide at the pump end is tapered and made of black plastic, the filter end just pushes loosely into this, it would be very difficult for this to get jammed in there.

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  33. #60
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    Thanks guys! Will try and take a photo. Already had a look at the other side of the sump and, yes, it's cast over. If what I'm seeing is this tapered plastic guide then there's nothing for me to do other than get a new plug and filter, unless you can buy the filter on it's own? My assumption is that the guide would have to provide a snuggish fit in order to force the oil through the strainer only but I guess I'll never know what really happened here. I know it's only a secondary filter but I'd like to sort it out before starting the bike again!

    On a different note, there's a thin layer of deposits which indicates mineral oil has been used so I'll not be putting in any Comp 4 or similar.

    Hey, DrD, sounds like you're a genuine doctor, heart surgeon perhaps?

    Now to find a new strainer...

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