Tech Library - Coring an S*R exhaust
A "how to" by Dave Gallagher
Why did I do it? ...because I really liked the shape of the original
exhausts and none of the aftermarket ones look as good in my opinion.
Its also turned out to be much cheaper,though obviously more work than
a commercially available set of cans.If you fancy a go then I recommend
getting a spare set like I did,that way if you mess up you can hide the
lot and swear blind you meant to do that in the first place.
Hope its of use to anyone who fancies doing the same.
The tools I used werent particularly special but the first thing you'll
need is a dremel style mini drill possibly with a flexible extension,with
a small enough cutting wheel to fit into the exhaust outlet,as this is
the only way into the cans.I used a hacksaw to cut through the internals,I've
since bought a cheap angle grinder/cutter and wished I'd bought it sooner
as the metal is quite hard.
This is the first steps in getting access to a set of S*R exhaust cans
If you look inside the exhaust exit you'll be able to see a weld,I cut
just inside this.

I spent a while trying to make sure the cut was all the way through with
the cutter disc breaking regularly.Your almost working by feel as you cant
see into the pipe while your cutting,I ended up making duplicate cuts because
of this.
A bit of brute force was needed here,I realised I had actually cut through
the steel and it only needed persuading to get it out,if you insert a bar
or old screwdriver into the cut and lever it around,the cap will move.Just
'walk' it out.
You can see the stump I removed and into the body of the can,you can just
about see the bracket securing the end cap to the internals.
Thats the bit I found hard to visualise from the outside.
Slightly clearer here
After the brackets are cut (and I nearly put the cutting wheel through
the whole end cap..whoops!)
Note the dust underneath,there was a lot of this and I should have worn
a dustmask
the end easily pulls off
A whack with a rubber mallet while holding the sleeve loosened things up
a bit
Actually this took me by surprise,the sleeve is only cosmetic!!
I had to stop at this stage because I couldnt find any goggles and the
sparks from the cutter were flying every where.When I restarted( a month
later) I tried to drill out the end tube first,more to find out what was
there than any great plan.You can see the result further down,not worth
the effort,just cut it!

The two cans differ slightly insofar as the top one has nuts to secure
the external heatshield with bolts,I chose to keep these and ended up cutting
away most of the metal around them leaving a strip of steel from the base
with the bolt holes on it.This doesnt hold any weight and what I left was
quite flimsy but was simply to keep the bolt holes in position when I replaced
the alloy sleeve.
You could also just cut them away and attach the bolts directly to the
sleeve,if you do this I'd also seal them with silicon sealant.
This is the top can.A straight cut through the top of the internal box
will open it up,I did this with a hacksaw but have since bought a cheap
angle grinder/cutter which would have been much easier and quicker
This is what you'll see,that bolt is for securing the heatshield
Note you can see all the way through now,this is what most of the US conversions
are like,I on the other hand, had a different plan.
This is the remains of the bottom cans baffles,its whats inside each of
the exhaust cans.I originally tried to drill onto the end of the can but
gave up and cut it at the edge,you can still see the lip attached to the
end of the internal pipe.
Heres the whole bottom can, this was the exploratory one for me,I dont
recommend cutting it up like this as its more work than you need,but I
wanted to know how the can was constructed and took it a little at a time.
Cut just above the support boltholes and you'll be left with the base section
on the left here,that all you need to do for the bottom can.
Heres a view down the stump of the lower can resting on its baffle,notice
the two bolts protruding internally, thats what mounts it to the support
and the frame....you'll want to keep those on both cans.You'll notice the
internal pipe is not central,this became a problem when I tried to
secure the new pipe and I ended up cutting this further down until the
new one fitted almost centrally on both pipes
Just placed the endcaps back on the sleeves here, you can see the cut metal
inside this would be hidden by soot if it was run like this but I thought
it was messy looking and after trying it like this on the bike I found
it was also a bit too loud for me too.This is what most US conversions
are.
I've missed a bit out here,I forgot to photograph it.
I drilled four holes through the endcaps and alloy sleeves to take securing
rivets,these were quite small and are only to secure the outlet cap from
blowing off,alloy rivets are fine and it'll mean I can get them out easily
for when I get round to colouring the sleeves black like I first intended.
Basically I then got two lengths of perforated tubing and cut them to length,I
then cut a few slots into the ends of the tubings to enable me to bend
it out slightly to nest over the endcaps inside edge.
I wrapped as much exhaust packing material around it as I could while allowing
me to slip the sleeve back into place,I used the mounting bolts to hold
it all in place while I positioned the endcaps.The outlet caps needed a
firm push and some minor fiddling to ensure the perforated tubing nested
correctly,once the first pop rivet was in it was a bit easier to do the
rest.I also put a little sealant around the endcaps helps keep it from
blowing.
A few pop rivets later and I mounted it all back onto the bike.
It now sound like a Ducati should,if this would be the only modification
then you may get away with running it without any need to alter the fuelling
etc., but I've also replaced the catylitic convertor AND put in an open
airbox with a DP filter so mine need adjusted as it will run lean otherwise.
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